WHERE THE FUN IN MUSHING, HEALTH & SAFETY OF OUR WORKING DOGS COMES FIRST

 

Training

1. The Musher

Dog driving is not merely riding on the back of the cart issuing commands to steer the dogs. It is hard work! If you start doing it in earnest, you will pull muscles, fall off the sled and have to pull yourself back on the runners with one hand, run yourself ragged chasing after the team (because you fell off of the cart or scooter), run into trees, and so on. In addition to these things, a musher must "peddle" the scooter or cart. This too can be tiring since it is repetitive. Peddling is pushing the scooter or cart forward with one foot while riding the scooter or cart. This is helpful to the dogs, particularly when tired. You may also frequently get off to run alongside when the dogs are tired. Therefore, to successfully drive sled dogs, the musher must train his or her body as well. Conditioning of the musher is to a small extent a function of the type of mushing to be done. The key is endurance and flexibility over muscle bulk. Running, biking, cross country running, scootering and carting are all good ways to build strength. You must remember that at all times, you are alpha. If you are tired, hesitant, and uncertain, your team will pick this up and become confused and unresponsive. 

It should be clear from this that dogs in a sled dog team must be very well bonded to the driver. Not only does it make training much easier, but well socialized, well bonded dogs make a very good sled dog team. The dogs are looking to you as their undisputed leader, and you and they work together as a *team*. If you are careful to bond to each of your dogs as individuals, and socialize them very well with each other, other dogs, and other humans, your dogs will be willing to do virtually anything for you.

2. Dogs to Pull

There are many aspects to training dogs to pull. Probably the most fundamental is *start young*. Get a puppy used to its harness, just as you would a collar and leash. Also let the puppy get used to pulling things. Start out with a small and light object and let it drag the object around behind its harness for a while. The emphasis is NOT on weight, just on having fun dragging a VERY LIGHT weight behind it. It is important to realize that one can injure a puppy's bones, structure, and spirit by doing too much!

To train adult dogs is relatively simple. Some dogs are natural pullers, others are not. Some dogs take right to the harness the first time, and other dogs, even ones from reputable breeders, may take extensive training. You just never know.

It is vital to get the dog to lean out and keep the line between it and you taut. Some dogs have a real problem with this, others do not. For problem dogs, the cause usually is due to the dog not liking you to be behind it. If you do have trouble, there are a variety of methods you can use. As long as you make training a fun game, and you make the dog understand what you want it to do, training will progress quickly, even for stubborn dogs, like Siberians. Fortunately, they LIKE to pull, so their stubbornness is not a problem here. Sometimes getting them to STOP pulling is!

Some mushers feel that it is best to train dogs to pull lots of weight, then speed comes naturally in a race without the weight. Others feel that speed and endurance training is best. Still others feel that a combination works best, similar to the combination training for the musher. Training for speed and endurance by mushing shorter distances (under 16 kilometers, sometimes even 5 or 7 kilometers) at top speed and up hills is beneficial. Loping along at 4 or 6 kilometers an hour for 24 or 32  kilometers is also beneficial. Both of these build strength and endurance. Pulling heavy weight for short distances is also quite good, particularly for wheel dogs (the ones hitched closest to the sled). For this, try a plastic tub to which you can add plastic weights (the ones from barbell sets will have the weights printed on them).

Whichever method you use, remember to take it easy with your dogs and not push them to hard, and never, NEVER, lose your temper with your dogs. Remember that this is supposed to be fun for both you and the dogs. George Attla, a famous musher once said, "If the dogs make a mistake while out on the trail remember that it is not the dogs that have made the mistake. It is you."

For additional training information (with much more detail than is practical to provide here), see the book references to the top right.

3. Lead Dogs

To successfully mush, one must have a good lead dog (or dogs). This dog will take your commands for regulating speed and direction for the entire team. Naturally, if you are driving only one dog, that will be your lead dog.

Training lead dogs is too complex to really do it justice here. The basics are you want the dog to learn to turn right, left, speed up, and slow down on voice command. You also want the dog to bypass interesting detours and distractions.

In addition to the basic commands:

Hike: Get the dogs moving
Gee: Turn right
Haw: Turn left
Easy: Slow down

the dog must also be taught the commands below:

kissing sound: Speed up (or other appropriate sound)
on-by: Go by a fork in the trail, other dogs, or other distractions without detour

All commands are spoken in a firm, calm, not too loud voice.

During training, you must be certain to use varied turns and trails to be sure that the dog is really executing the commands rather than following a well worn path. You must also anticipate the turn and issue the command at the correct time from the *dog's* perspective. Finally, some people get confused when issuing the right/left commands, particularly in the excitement of a race. Some mushers tape the commands on the front of their sleds, on the right and left sides. You may want to do this while beginning on the cart.

To train a dog to execute these commands with regularity is not too difficult. To train a dog to do this during the excitement of a race with lots of distractions is more difficult. One possible way to approach training is to start out on foot when the dog is a puppy. Keep the lessons varied, quick, and fun. Be certain to do the lessons in a variety of environments, with and without distractions. When the dog is old enough to pull weight (about one year to 18 months, get advice from your veterinarian), you may wish to graduate to cross country canicross. The dog will learn to execute commands in dry conditions, and at higher speeds. Once you have your lead dog well trained and pulling your cart, you will find that other untrained, young, dogs can be very easily added to your team as your lead dog will "correct" the new dog's mistakes, usually faster and better than you can.

This is one way in which lead dogs can be trained. Consult the experienced mushers for additional information.

To gain valuable knowledge on various topics, visit the follow page:

The Trail Trail Officials Articles Past Bulletins

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A must to read:

Mush! Revised A Beginner's Manual of Sled Dog Training(Editor) Charlene G. Labelle ISBN: 097906760X
 

Born To Pull
 
Born To Pull (Author) Bob Cary
ISBN: 1570251460

Dog Driver: A Guide for the Serious Musher

Dog Driver: A Guide for the Serious Musher (Author) Miki Collins & Julie Collins ISBN: 0931866480

Guide to Backpacking with Your Dog

Guide to Backpacking with your Dog (Editor) Charlene G. Labelle ISBN: 1577790634

To order, click on image below: Provide Title, Author, Editor & ISBN number in your e-mail with your name and contact details.